Modern textile technology has given rise to some purpose-specific fabrics with features like: wind-proof, breathable, wrinkle free, moisture wicking, scent block, and SPF.  As anglers, we now have performance clothing that allows us to fish longer and under a variety of conditions. I exploit high performance clothing while fishing.  But!  For me, there is no replacement for the warmth and comfort of my wool sweater during extreme cold conditions.

I have several wool sweaters from Ireland that I wear while ice fishing and open water fishing in early spring and late fall.  The primary advantage that wool has over modern fabrics is that it’s the only material that will keep you warm when wet.  When in doubt, fish with wool. 😉

Metals (a.k.a. “tins”) are under-utilized by surfcasters. For deep water and wind-in-your-face conditions, I pull out the heavy metal.

My go-to heavy metals are: Kastmaster (3 or 4 oz), Deadly Dicks (3, 4, or 5 oz), Crippled Herring (3, 4, or 5 oz), and Hopkins (3, 4, or 5 oz). These metals are available in various colors and finishes. I like chrome, chrome/blue, chrome/green, green/yellow, and yellow. I dress all my metals with custom tied tails. The tails enhance the color profile and give more action. On my all-chrome metals, I change the color profile by simply replacing the tail. My journal entries confirm that metals with tails catch more fish than metals without tails. 😉

A Kastmater, Deadly Dicks, Crippled Herring, and Hopkins each has its own unique shape and weight distribution, which determines how far it casts, sinks, and how it moves through the water column.

Once for ounce, the furthest casting is the Deadly Dicks because it’s thin profile offers the least drag as it moves through the air. Once for ounce, the Kastmaster has the slowest sink rate because of it’s large surface area.

The running depth of a Kastmaster, Deadly Dicks, and Crippled Herring can be controlled by your retrieve speed. A fast retrieve will bring these metals to the top and a slow retrieve will swim these metals down low. When fishing from a sloping shore line, as your metal moves in closer, the height of the water column is reduced, so be sure to pick up your speed as the metal moves in to keep it at the desired depth.

The Kastmaster and Deadly Dicks have an top-to-bottom s-like swimming action. The Cripple Herring has more of a side-to-side swimming action. The Hopkins gives a wounded bait fish falling action as it’s jigged in the lower portion of the water column.

A metal lure costs less than a custom wooden plug. A metal out-casts a wooden plug, in any condition. Metals are more durable than plugs. Metals can fish the entire water column. Heavy metal catch BIG fish. Why are metals not over-utilized by surfcasters?

I have been using a pair of Korker cleats for years. During my last trip to Cuttyhunk Island, I lost a cleat after being knocked off a rock by a wave.  Korker now has boots with studs.  But, my Simms boots still have a lot of steps left in them.  So, I order a set of Grip Studs.

Mounting the #1800 Grip Studs to your boots is easy.  All you need is the stud tool and a power drill.  Before you drill, define a pattern that will distribute your weight evenly across all of the studs.  This will enhance your balance and reduce pressure points.

I field tested my new traction control system on a precarious rock formation that extends far out from a sandy beach.  They grip!  The barnacles, seaweed, and relentless waves were no match!!  I never lost my footing!!!

Grip Studs just work.  It’s that simple.  The unexpected benefit of using Grip Studs instead of Korker cleats is increased fishing time.  All I need to do is tie my boots and I am ready to trek over rocks with sea weed dread locks. 🙂

Inlets condense the water column and flush bait fish from the back bay, salt pond, or river during an outgoing tide. Large predatory fish hence frequent inlets for free meals. That is, meals delivered to them via current for which they expend minimal energy. The most productive way to fish inlets is to cast up current and work the water column as your presentation drifts down current. This repetitive process is a proven and widely exploited method with artificials: plugs, jigs, metals, and plastics. Ironically, not with chunks.

To properly drift a chunk in an inlet, you need a rig that will cast far, drift, and not snag the bottom easily. I have developed a new rig that I call the “Canal Chunking Rig”. This rig uses a Tactical Anglers clip, two Krok 310 lb swivels, 80 lb mono, and a 4, 5, or 6 oz sinker. This rig is not commercially available. Making this rig takes time. But, it’s time well spent. Here is how I make this rig.

1. Tie a 40″ length of 80 lb monofilament to a 175 lb Tactical Anglers clip via improved clinch knot.
2. Tie a 310 lb Krork swivel on the other end of the line to form an end-to-end length of 12″.
3. Tie a 60″ length of 80 lb monofilament to the other end of the 310 lb Krork stainless steel swivel. Be sure to leave a long tag (e.g. 12″ long).
4. Slide an egg sinker (e.g. 4, 5, 6, or 8 oz) through the line and the tag end.
5. Loop the tag end back through the egg sinker and tie two overhand knots on the tag end to secure the egg sinker.
6. Tie a 310 lb Krork stainless steel swivel on the other end of the line to form an end-to-end length of 24″. This will give you a Canal Chunking Rig with a approximate total length of 40″.

I make 4, 5, 6, and 8 oz rigs Canal Chunking Rigs. I pre-rig my chunks on my hooks and slip them on and off the Tactical Anglers power clip. I also re-rig based on the current speed and the depth that I want to drift my chunk at. I tend to bounce my chunk across the bottom. But, when the fish are suspending and not staged behind structure, I will drift chunks throughout the entire water column. Time is fish!

Holding bottom with a castable sinker in an inlet with water moving at 5 knots is impossible. Go with the flow! Cast your chunk rig up-current and fish the drift. The predators are looking for meat. Feed them meat!