The Owner long shank hooks are traditionally used for rigging bait fish.  BUT! They work exceptional well for rigging large soft plastic baits; particularly long and large profile swim baits (a.k.a “paddle tails” or “swim shads”).

Large solid soft plastic swimbaits have some buoyancy. To get them to swim consistently below the water’s surface, I add weight. There are a variety of materials that can be used for weight. Chemically speak, tungsten (W, 19.25 g/cm3) is denser than lead (Pb, 11.34 g/cm3). Lead is denser than copper (Cu, 8.96 g/cm3). Copper is denser than steel (C+Fe,7.75 g/cm3). And steel is denser than tin (Sn, 7.31 g/cm3). I use a variety of materials based on depth and regulations.

For “shallow” running depths, I use insert weights made from tungsten, lead, or copper.  I secure them to the shank via thread and epoxy. For thread, you can use fly tying thread or recycled braided line. The latter allows you to really tighten the weights to the hook shank.

For “deeper” running depths, I use rubber core sinkers made from lead or steel. I remove the rubber core and bore out the channel with a power drill to accommodate the hook shank. Once the hook sits level inside the channel, I clamp the sinker onto the shank of the hook via vice grip pliers.

Solid body soft plastic swim baits can easily accommodate the diameter of a hook’s shank.  But, increasing that diameter with weights can cause splitting. Hence, I exploit a power drill and drill bits.

I align the Owner long shank hook on the side of the swimbait. I make a mark on the side where the hook starts to bend. I also make a mark where the hook will penetrate from the top of the swimbait.

I drill a hole through the nose of swim bait until the point where the hook starts to bend. I then drill a hole a 45 degree angle where the point of the hook will penetrate the top of the swim bait. This channel will allow the hook to be inserted into the swimbait at the exact position. To accommodate the weight’s length and diameter, I enlarge part of the channel using an appropriately sized drill bit.

The position of the weights on the shank will alter the action of the swimbait.  Mounting the weights near the eye of the hook will cause the swimbait to head dive and swim with the paddle tail upwards.  Mounting the weights towards the center of the hook will cause the soft plastic to fall and swim level.  Each action has it’s application. I use the former to target fish holding on bottom or near structure. I use the latter to target suspending fish.

Rigging long and large profile soft plastic swimbaits with Owner long shank hooks with various weights (1/16 oz to 1 oz) will allow you to fish them at precise depths in the water column.  Such versatility is unmatched by commercially available swimbaits with embedded weights, which tend to have increasing weight with increasing length.

A bobber is a great way to present bait at a specific depth below the water’s surface. There are several commercial bobbers on the market in various sizes, geometries, and colors. However, you are not limited to what’s available in the marketplace. With some simple tools and materials, you can make your own bobber to fish a variety of baits in a variety of conditions.

Materials

• Wine Bottle Cork
• Monofilament or flurocarbon
• Hook
• Swivel
• Split shot (optional)

Tools

• Safety Glasses
• Line cutter or scissors
• Rigging Needle (e.g. Carp Bait Needle)
• Pliers (optional)

Making your own bobbers is easy. Cut a length of monofilament or flurocarbon to fish your desired depth; be sure to add addition lengths for knots. Tie the length of monofilament or flurocarbon to a swivel via improved clinch knot . Tie a double surgeon’s loop to the other end of the leader. Insert a rigging needle through the enter of a wine bottle cork and hook the loop.

Pull the line through the cork until the bottom eye of the swivel touches the cork.  Push bottom eye of the swivel into the cork.  Cut the double surgeons loop knot and tie a hook of your choice via improved clinch knot . Depending on your application, you can add a non-lead split spot.

Besides being very low cost (excluding the cost of the wine), the primary advantage of this DIY bobber is that it provides maximum buoyancy with a minimal profile. I personally think that cork has more of a natural look than a red/white plastic sphere. 😉

A pedestrian theory on plug colors is that they catch anglers, not fish. I think this theory is wrong. Selecting the right plug color based on the time of year, time of day, depth, and conditions is as important as selecting the size, action, and weight of the plug.

The time of year is important because bait fish populations and migrations are seasonal. Learn what bait fish are in your local waters and when they arrive. Fish colors that complement the swimming bait fish. If there is thick concentration of bait fish, then fish colors that contrast the school of bait fish.

Time of day is key. A proven pattern is light colors by day and dark colors by night. Personally, I tend to favor two-tone color plugs. My day shift plug bag has colors like:

• Yellow / White
• Blue / White
• Green / White
• Red / White
• Pink / White
• Blue Mackerel
• Green Mackerel

My night shift plug bag has colors like:

• Black / Yellow
• Black / Purple
• Black / Blue
• Black / Pink
• Black / Green

The most commonly overlooked parameter by surfcasters is depth. Colors appear different at increasing depths in the water column because light penetration decreases as depth increases. For example, red is not visible as red after 10 feet of water. Hence, my red/white plugs are all top water plugs and my deep swimming plugs have yellow and chartreuse.

Time of day, time of year, and depth are predicable parameters. Conditions are out of our control. No matter how many weather apps your smart phone has, when you get to the water’s edge, the conditions can (and often do) change without warning. For white water or “washing machine” conditions, I like bright and loud colors like:

• Chartreuse / Yellow
• Red / Yellow
• Yellow / Blue
• Blue / Green

But! If I had to pick three colors, I would fish: yellow, white, and black. You can hook a lot of fish with just these three colors when you fish your plugs properly.

Bottom line, all colors catch fish. The right color at the end of your line is not the newest plug fashion craze. The right color at the end of your line is the color that you have confidence in. Fishing proven colors based on time of year, time of day, depth, and conditions, will help your confidence. Confident anglers catch fish!

The versatility of soft plastic baits in freshwater and saltwater is awesome! But!! A soft plastic bait will not catch a fish without a hook!!! Selecting the optimal hook for a soft plastic bait requires some consideration.

The first consideration is hook size. I use the largest hook that will penetrate the soft plastic without negatively impacting the bait’s action. I learned this lesson the hard way when I lost a trophy fish! ;-(

The second consideration is weight. The two selection factors for weight are: the density of the soft plastic and the height of the water column. Frankly, I keep it simple. I rig each soft plastic with an un-weighed hook and a weighted hook. I use a Tactical Anglers Power Clip, which allows me to quickly switch pre-rigged soft plastic baits in seconds. Time is fish!

The third consideration is wire thickness. I am sure fine wire hooks have their place. But, it’s not in my Plano boxes! I use strong and sharp hooks. After each trip to the ocean, I rise my hooks with fresh water to keep my hooks sharp.

My first choice hook for thin and medium profile soft plastic baits is the Owner Beast hook. These hooks have strong wire and bleeding sharp points. They are also very well balanced. The are available in 4/0, 6/0, 8/0, and 10/0 sizes. Each size is available un-weighted and weighted: 1/8 oz, 1/4 oz, 3/8 oz, and 1/2 oz. Bottom line, I buy Owner Beast hooks because they hook and land fish!!! 😉

During my seminars, I am often asked: “What surf Rod should I get?” This simple question has a complex answer because selecting a surf rod is a process. The process involves a logical series of multi-option questions.

Are you casing bait, plugs or jigs? If bait, eels or chunks? If chunks, then 1 – 6 oz or 8+ oz of lead and bait? If plugs, what size range? 1 – 3 oz or 3 – 5 oz? If jigs, what weights? 1 – 2 oz or 2 – 6 oz? Where are you fishing? Rivers, back bays, jetties, or surf? Do you skish?

These questions are important become they help to determine the application of your next surf rod. The application, then determines the action, power, material, and length of the blank. The application also determines the guide style and the number and placement of the guides.

Selecting an application specific surf rod is now much easier, thanks to the St. Croix Mojo Surf rods. These rods range from 7′ to 12′ and have casting loads from 3/8 oz to 16 oz. I prefer the blanks with a moderate-fast action because they propel your presentation a great distance and bend parabolically to quickly exhaust large predatory fish. The rods are wrapped for spinning and casting reels. The two piece models have off-set ferrules, which provide one-piece performance. These rods also have a 5 year warranty! 😉

I have been fishing St. Croix rods for 15 years. I currently own 4 Mojo Surf rods. I have an 8′ Mojo Surf spinning rod (Medium Power, Moderate-Fast Action, 3/4 – 3 oz) that I use for freshwater surfcasting and schoolies in back bays. I outcast everyone at reservoirs 3 to 1, on every cast with this rod. I have a 9′ Mojo Surf spinning rod (Medium Power, Moderate-Fast Action, 1 – 4 oz) that I use for eels and 1 – 3 oz plugs/jigs in the surf. This versatile rod has a lot of power for a 9 foot rod! I have a 10’6″ Mojo Surf spinning rod (Medium-Heavy Power, Moderate-Fast Action, 2 – 6 oz) that I use for 3 – 5 oz plugs/jigs and “light” chunking in the surf, rivers, and inlets. The 11′ Mojo Surf spinning rod (Medium-Heavy Power, Moderate-Fast Action, 3 – 8 oz) is an ideal jigging for heavy current inlets like the Cape Cod Canal. I have a 12′ Mojo Surf casting rod (Heavy Power, Moderate-Fast Action, 6 – 16 oz) that I use for “heavy” chunking (eight-and-bait). This rod is a beast! Bottom line, these rods just work, cast after cast.

St. Croix has reduced the complexity of selecting a surf rod by building 14 different Mojo Surf rods for the full spectrum of applications. Check them out at the New England Saltwater Fishing Show.